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Sven Eriksson

Sailboat Captain and Sailing Instructor from Gothenburg, Sweden

S

Sven Eriksson

Phang NgaSailboat Captain and Sailing Instructor6 years4 min read

From Gothenburg, Sweden · Southern Thailand

I traded North Sea storms for Andaman sunsets. The ocean is the same everywhere but the life around it is completely different. Thailand's waters taught me that paradise is a verb, not a noun.

My Story

I spent twenty-five years as a commercial sailor and later a sailboat captain in the North Sea and Baltic. I ran charters out of Gothenburg, taking clients through the Swedish archipelago and occasionally to Norway and Denmark. It was a good life - I love the sea and I love boats. But Swedish winters on the water are brutal. By age fifty, my knees ached from cold, my skin was weathered beyond my years, and I was dreaming about warm water and tropical islands with an intensity that was no longer deniable.

I first sailed in Thai waters in 2015 on a delivery job, bringing a yacht from Singapore to Phuket for a European owner. The Andaman Sea in February was a revelation: warm water, consistent winds, limestone islands rising from turquoise water, and a sailing infrastructure that was surprisingly well-developed. I had expected Third World marinas and was surprised to find modern facilities, professional services, and a growing community of international sailors.

I returned to Sweden, sold my boat and my charter business, and moved to Thailand in 2020. I settled in Phang Nga province, just north of Phuket, in the coastal village of Tab Lamu. The area is the gateway to the Similan and Surin Islands, some of the best diving and sailing waters in the world. It is quieter and more authentically Thai than Phuket, which suits me perfectly.

I bought a 42-foot sailing yacht through a Thai broker and registered it under the Thai flag. The process was straightforward with the help of a maritime lawyer. I named her Lady Andaman. She is my home, my office, and my greatest joy. I live aboard full-time, docked at a marina in Tab Lamu when not sailing, and anchored in the Similan Islands or Phang Nga Bay when the weather allows.

I operate sailing charters and sailing courses through my company, Andaman Sea Adventures. The business offers three-day sailing trips through Phang Nga Bay, week-long expeditions to the Similan Islands, and ASA-certified sailing courses for beginners and intermediate sailors. The charters are popular with European and Australian tourists, and the courses attract expats living in Thailand who want to learn to sail.

The Andaman Sea coast of Thailand offers some of the most spectacular sailing in the world. Phang Nga Bay, with its hundreds of limestone karsts rising from emerald water, is surreal. James Bond Island gets the tourists, but the real magic is anchoring in a secluded bay as the sun sets behind the karsts, with nothing but the sound of water lapping against the hull. The Similan Islands, sixty nautical miles offshore, have crystal-clear water with 30-meter visibility, pristine coral reefs, and beaches that look photoshopped.

Sailing in Thai waters requires understanding the monsoon seasons. The northeast monsoon from November to April brings calm seas, clear skies, and ideal sailing conditions. The southwest monsoon from May to October brings stronger winds, bigger seas, and more rain. Many yachties head to the Gulf of Thailand or the South China Sea during the southwest monsoon. I use the low season for maintenance, courses, and exploring the Andaman coast closer to shore.

The sailing community in the Phuket-Phang Nga area is international and tight-knit. About 200-300 liveaboard sailors are based here, from Sweden, Germany, the UK, France, Australia, the US, and increasingly from China and Russia. We communicate by VHF radio, share weather information, and gather at anchorages for sundowners. The community has its own culture - self-reliant, adventurous, and egalitarian. On the water, national origin and net worth are irrelevant. What matters is seamanship and character.

My monthly income averages 80,000-120,000 THB during high season and 30,000-50,000 THB during low season. Annual expenses including marina fees, insurance, maintenance, and personal costs run about 600,000 THB. The business is profitable but not highly lucrative. I am not here to get rich. I am here to live the life I want.

What Thailand's waters have taught me is that paradise is not a place - it is a practice. Every morning I wake up on my boat, look at the water, and make a choice to appreciate where I am. Some days the anchor drags, the engine breaks, or a squall rolls through unexpectedly. Paradise includes problems. The difference is that here, solving problems happens in warm water with a view of limestone karsts instead of in freezing rain with a view of industrial ports.

The Thai fishing communities along the Andaman coast have been welcoming and helpful. Thai fishermen are among the most skilled seafarers I have encountered. Their knowledge of local waters, weather patterns, and navigation is extraordinary and based on generations of experience. I have learned more about reading the Andaman Sea from Thai fishermen than from any chart or manual.

I sail solo when I need solitude and with crew when I have charters. The balance is perfect. After twenty-five years of commercial pressure in Sweden, the freedom to sail when and where I want is the greatest luxury I have ever known. Lady Andaman and I have logged 15,000 nautical miles together in Thai waters, and I have not yet grown tired of the view

Top Tips

  • 1The Andaman Sea coast from November to April offers the best sailing conditions in Thailand
  • 2Thai maritime law requires proper registration and insurance for foreign-owned vessels. Use a maritime lawyer
  • 3Phuket has the most developed sailing infrastructure, but Phang Nga and Krabi offer quieter, more authentic bases
  • 4The ASA and RYA sailing certification courses are available in Thailand and recognized internationally
  • 5Monsoon season from May to October requires careful planning. Many sailors relocate to the Gulf of Thailand
  • 6Thai fishing boats navigate using traditional knowledge that can supplement modern navigation tools
  • 7Marina fees in Thailand are reasonable by European standards. Budget 5,000-15,000 THB per month depending on boat size and location
  • 8Learn about Thai maritime customs and regulations. Some areas require permits, particularly near national marine parks

Favorite Things

  • Dawn anchorages in Phang Nga Bay with karsts emerging from morning mist
  • The silence of sailing under wind alone, engine off, hull cutting through warm water
  • Thai fishing boats returning to port at dusk, their lights reflected in calm water
  • Weeknight dinners on deck with sailing friends from a dozen countries
  • The Similan Islands underwater - snorkeling in water clarity that defies belief
  • Monsoon squalls that pass in an hour, leaving the air cool and the sea glassy
  • My Tab Lamu neighbor who brings me fresh fish in exchange for sailing lessons for his son
  • The feeling of the tiller in my hand and the wind in the sails - pure freedom

Cultural Insights

  • 1Thai coastal communities have been seafaring for millennia. Their maritime traditions predate European navigation by centuries
  • 2The Moken sea gypsies of the Surin Islands are among the last nomadic maritime peoples on Earth. Their knowledge of the sea is extraordinary
  • 3Traditional Thai longtail boats evolved from designs used for centuries along the Andaman coast
  • 4Thai maritime culture includes animist beliefs about sea spirits that influence fishing practices and sailing traditions
  • 5The concept of nai nam, or belonging to the water, describes the identity of coastal Thai people whose lives are shaped by the sea

Challenges & Realities

  • Monsoon season creates periods of unfavorable sailing conditions that require alternative plans
  • Boat maintenance in tropical waters is constant. Salt, heat, and humidity accelerate wear
  • Marine regulations in Thailand are evolving and can be inconsistent between jurisdictions
  • The sailing business is seasonal, requiring financial planning for low-season months