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Hans Weber

Retired Chef Turned Cooking Teacher from Vienna, Austria

H

Hans Weber

Koh SamuiRetired Chef Turned Cooking Teacher8 years4 min read

From Vienna, Austria · Southern Thailand

I cooked in Michelin-starred kitchens across Europe for thirty years. Thai grandmothers cooking on the side of the road taught me more about flavor in one afternoon than all my professional training combined.

My Story

I retired to Koh Samui in 2018 after a thirty-year career as a professional chef in Vienna, Paris, and London. My last position was executive chef at a two-Michelin-star restaurant in Vienna. I was fifty-eight, exhausted, and rich enough to never cook again if I chose. I chose Koh Samui because I had visited twice and been captivated by the island's food culture, which is distinct from mainland Thai cuisine and influenced by southern Thai, Chinese, and Malay traditions.

The plan was to retire completely. No cooking, no restaurants, no kitchen stress. I would lie on the beach, read books, and enjoy the tropical climate. This lasted approximately three weeks. I am constitutionally incapable of not cooking. I started making meals for myself that evolved into meals for neighbors that evolved into a weekly dinner party that evolved into the most unexpected second career of my life.

Koh Samui's food culture is extraordinary and underappreciated. The island has its own coconut curry traditions, its own seafood preparations, its own style of som tam that uses local ingredients like unripe papaya and salted eggs in ways different from the Isaan original. The coconut on Koh Samui is arguably the best in Thailand, and coconut cream forms the base of most local dishes. Southern Thai food is the spiciest in the kingdom, and Koh Samui's cuisine carries that fiery character.

I became obsessed with learning southern Thai cooking from the source. I befriended Auntie Sunee, a seventy-year-old Koh Samui native who ran a tiny food stall near my house in Lamai. She had been cooking the same dishes for fifty years, using recipes passed down from her mother and grandmother. Her khua kling, a dry-fried spicy meat dish, was the single most flavorful thing I had ever tasted. And I have tasted a lot of food.

Auntie Sunee agreed to teach me, but on her terms. I would come to her stall at 5 AM, help prep ingredients, watch her cook, and ask questions only when she paused. She did not use recipes, measurements, or timers. Everything was by feel, by taste, by smell, and by the wisdom of fifty years of repetition. Learning from her was the most profound culinary education I have received, surpassing anything I learned in Michelin-starred kitchens.

The fundamental difference between European fine dining and Thai home cooking, I came to understand, is the relationship between the cook and the ingredients. In European cuisine, the chef imposes technique on ingredients to achieve a predetermined vision. In Thai cooking, the cook responds to the ingredients - tasting, adjusting, balancing - in a dynamic conversation. The dish emerges from the interaction between cook and ingredient rather than being imposed upon it.

After two years of learning from Auntie Sunee and other local cooks, I started offering Thai cooking classes from my home kitchen. Word spread through the expat community and tourist networks. I now teach three classes per week during high season, each limited to six students, charging 3,500 THB per person for a four-hour session that includes a market visit and a full meal. The classes are booked weeks in advance.

I also started a supper club that runs twice a month, serving a six-course tasting menu that fuses European technique with southern Thai ingredients and philosophy. The menu changes based on what is fresh at the market that morning. There is no fixed menu, no printed cards, no ceremony. Just exceptional food served at a long table where strangers become friends over shared plates. The supper club is my greatest creative satisfaction - more fulfilling than any Michelin star I ever earned.

Monthly income from classes and the supper club is about 120,000 THB during high season and 60,000 THB during low season. My living costs on Koh Samui are about 40,000 THB per month. I live in a beautiful house overlooking the ocean in Lamai for 20,000 THB. The financial simplicity is liberating.

What Thailand taught me about cooking is that the best food is not about perfection. It is about generosity. Auntie Sunee does not cook to impress anyone. She cooks to feed people with love. Every dish she makes carries that intention, and you can taste it. My Michelin-starred food was technically brilliant but it was often ego-driven. The best meals of my life are the ones I eat at plastic tables on Koh Samui, served by women who have been cooking the same recipes for generations and who put more love into a plate of pad kra pao than I ever put into a tasting menu that cost 300 EUR.

I visit Vienna once a year. I eat at my old restaurant, now run by my former sous chef. The food is excellent. Then I fly back to Koh Samui and eat Auntie Sunee's khua kling, and I am home

Top Tips

  • 1Koh Samui's food culture is distinct from mainland Thailand. Take time to learn southern Thai specialties rather than generic Thai dishes
  • 2Local markets are the heart of Thai food culture. Visit them early in the morning when ingredients are freshest and vendors are most talkative
  • 3Thai cooking classes are popular with tourists but teaching them well requires deep knowledge. Study with Thai cooks first
  • 4Southern Thai food is very spicy. Learn to adjust heat levels for different palates without compromising flavor
  • 5The supper club model works well in Thailand. Start small, build a loyal following through word of mouth
  • 6Koh Samui has good international ingredient availability through Makro and Big C. Local wet markets provide the best Thai produce
  • 7Thai food presentation is beautiful in its simplicity. Do not overplate. Let the colors and textures of the ingredients speak
  • 8Respect the traditional recipes. Innovation should build on tradition, not replace it

Favorite Things

  • 5 AM visits to Nathon market with Auntie Sunee, selecting ingredients by touch and smell
  • My outdoor kitchen where ocean breezes cool the wok
  • The moment students taste their own cooking and realize they made something delicious
  • Supper club nights when strangers become friends over shared plates
  • Coconut cream from Koh Samui coconuts - sweeter and richer than anywhere else
  • Southern Thai curry pastes pounded by hand in a granite mortar
  • Teaching Europeans that real Thai food bears no resemblance to what they eat at home in Thai restaurants
  • Auntie Sunee's laugh when I ask her to measure an ingredient

Cultural Insights

  • 1Southern Thai cuisine is the spiciest in Thailand, influenced by Malay, Indian, and Chinese traditions alongside indigenous Thai cooking
  • 2Coconut is the foundation of southern Thai cooking. Every part of the coconut is used: cream, milk, water, meat, oil, shell, and husk
  • 3Thai food is always shared. The concept of individual plates is foreign to Thai dining culture. Food comes in shared dishes that everyone tastes
  • 4Thai cooks balance five flavor profiles in every dish: sweet, sour, salty, spicy, and bitter. This balance is the fundamental principle of Thai cuisine
  • 5The Thai kitchen is minimalist by European standards. A wok, a mortar and pestle, a cleaver, and a charcoal fire are sufficient for extraordinary cooking

Challenges & Realities

  • Koh Samui is more expensive than mainland Thailand, particularly during high tourist season
  • Teaching cooking requires patience and communication skills beyond culinary technique
  • Maintaining the quality of ingredients during low season when supply chains are less reliable
  • Balancing authentic Thai recipes with the palates of international students who may not tolerate extreme spice levels