Isan (Northeast Thailand)
Living in Ubon Ratchathani
The heart of Isan — ancient traditions, Khmer ruins, and authentic Thai living
Population~70,000 (city), ~1.8M (province)
Monthly Cost$350 - $1,000
Internet Speed100 Mbps
Safety Rating
Expat Score
About Ubon Ratchathani
Ubon Ratchathani is a major city in Isan, Thailand's vast northeastern region that shares cultural and culinary ties with neighboring Laos. The provincial capital of approximately 70,000 people sits along the Mun River and serves as a gateway to Laos via the Chong Mek border crossing, about 90 kilometers away. The city is renowned for its annual Candle Festival each July, when enormous carved wax sculptures parade through the streets accompanied by traditional dance and music — one of Thailand's most spectacular cultural events. The surrounding province includes Pha Taem National Park with 3,000-year-old cliff paintings. Living costs are among the lowest in Thailand, with comfortable monthly budgets starting at $350.
Best For
Budget seekersCultural immersionBorder hoppersFood lovers
Highlights
Candle Festival
Pha Taem cliff paintings
Chong Mek border crossing
Authentic Isan cuisine
Getting Around Ubon Ratchathani
Ubon Ratchathani is a sprawling provincial city where personal transportation makes a significant difference in quality of life. There is no public bus system within the city, though songthaews run fixed routes along major roads for 10-30 THB per trip, connecting the city center to Warin Chamrap, the university area, and outlying markets. Motorbike rental is the most practical option at 2,000-3,000 THB ($55-85) per month, with several rental shops near the train station and along Chayangkul Road. Grab operates in Ubon with reasonable coverage, though wait times can be longer than in Bangkok and fares are correspondingly lower — a cross-town ride typically costs 60-120 THB. The city center around Thung Si Mueang park and Srimuang Road is walkable for daily errands, with markets, banks, restaurants, and the main shopping centers including a Big C and a Robinson department store within a reasonable radius. For travel beyond the city, Ubon Ratchathani Airport provides daily flights to Bangkok in about 70 minutes, the railway station offers overnight sleeper service to Bangkok in 10-12 hours, and the bus terminal connects to destinations throughout Isan and the rest of Thailand.
Food and Isan Culture
Ubon Ratchathani offers one of Thailand's most authentic and rewarding food scenes for those willing to embrace Isan cuisine. The city's markets and street stalls serve dishes that define northeastern Thai cooking: som tam (green papaya salad) pounded fresh to order with chilies, lime, fish sauce, and peanuts; laab made with minced pork, chicken, or fish seasoned with toasted rice powder and fresh herbs; and gai yang, charcoal-grilled chicken marinated in a lemongrass and garlic paste. Sticky rice, served in small woven baskets, accompanies nearly every meal — locals pinch off portions with their right hand and dip into shared dishes. The night market near Thung Si Mueang park and the morning market along the Mun River are the best spots for authentic Isan food at 40-80 THB per plate. Beyond food, the city's cultural identity is deeply tied to its Buddhist heritage. Wat Phra That Nong Bua, with its Chedi-style stupa inspired by India's Bodh Gaya, is the city's most prominent temple. The annual Candle Festival in July transforms the city into a massive open-air gallery of wax art, drawing hundreds of thousands of visitors. For a quieter cultural experience, Wat Pah Nanachat, a forest monastery established by the famous monk Ajahn Chah, welcomes English-speaking visitors interested in meditation retreats.
Exploring the Province and Border Hopping
Ubon Ratchathani province offers some of Thailand's most dramatic natural landscapes and historical sites within easy reach of the city. Pha Taem National Park, about 100 kilometers east of Ubon, is the province's crown jewel — its cliff faces bear over 300 prehistoric rock paintings estimated at 3,000-4,000 years old, depicting humans, animals, fish traps, and geometric patterns in red ochre pigment. The park's elevated plateaus offer sweeping views across the Mekong River into Laos, especially at sunrise. At Khong Jiam, about 60 kilometers from the city, the Mun River meets the Mekong in a striking natural phenomenon where two differently colored water currents flow side by side before merging, best viewed from the Wat Pha Tang temple hill. The Chong Mek border crossing provides access to southern Laos, where the UNESCO World Heritage site of Wat Phou, an ancient Khmer temple complex predating Angkor Wat, is reachable in about two hours. For weekend trips within the province, Sirindhorn Dam offers boat tours through flooded forest landscapes, and Kaeng Tana National Park features rapids and rock formations along the Mun River. These excursions cost very little — park entrance fees for foreigners are typically 200-400 THB, and local guesthouses in provincial towns charge 300-600 THB per night.
Pros and Cons of Living in Ubon Ratchathani
Advantages
- Extremely low cost of living
Among the cheapest cities in Thailand with comfortable living from $350-600/month including rent, food, and transport.
- Authentic Isan cultural experience
Unfiltered access to northeastern Thai traditions, festivals, and the fiery, herbaceous Isan cuisine that defines the region.
- Gateway to Laos
The Chong Mek border crossing connects to Pakse and southern Laos, enabling easy visa runs and cross-border exploration.
- Spectacular natural surroundings
Pha Taem's ancient cliff paintings, the Two-Color River at Khong Jiam, and multiple national parks within driving distance.
Considerations
- Very small expat community
Minimal foreign presence with few English-speaking services, social groups, or amenities catering to Westerners.
- Extreme heat from March to May
Isan's dry season regularly sees temperatures exceeding 40°C, making midday outdoor activity punishing.
- Limited healthcare for complex needs
Ubon Ratchathani Hospital provides solid basic care, but specialized treatments may require travel to Bangkok or Khon Kaen.
Neighborhoods
Popular areas to live in Ubon Ratchathani
Nai Mueang (City Center)
Main commercial district around Thung Si Mueang park, night markets, and government offices
From $80-200/moWarin Chamrap
Area across the Mun River with local markets, temples, and affordable residential housing
From $70-180/moSrimuang
Central district near Sunee Grand Hotel with restaurants, shops, and the city's main commercial activity
From $80-200/moUniversity area (Ubon Ratchathani University)
Student-oriented district with budget eateries, inexpensive housing, and a youthful atmosphere
From $60-150/moLocal Living Tips
- 1Learn basic Thai and some Isan phrases — English is very rarely spoken outside the university area
- 2The Sunee Grand Hotel area is the most foreigner-friendly part of town for dining and services
- 3Sticky rice is the staple here, not jasmine rice — embrace the local way of eating with your hands
- 4Visit Thung Si Mueang park in the early morning for exercise and a glimpse of local daily life
- 5The Chong Mek border crossing is useful for visa runs — overnight buses to Pakse, Laos are available
- 6Motorbike rental costs around 2,000-3,000 THB per month and is the easiest way to explore the province
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